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Neruda loved Valparaíso. He usually
travelled from Isla Negra to this port, where he used to stay
for some days in the house inhabited by the married couple of
Marie Martner and Francisco Velasco.
In 1959, back from a long time in Venezuela, he requested Sara Vial to look for a place in Valparaíso where he
could live and write in peace.
To find a house meeting Neruda’s requirements wasn’t
easy. It had to be on a hill, but next to the city, looking both
at the sea and the town, “far from everything, but next
to transportation”, with quiet neighbours, “lonely
but not too much”, “light but firm”, “original
but comfortable” and, above all, conveniently priced.
After a long search, the structure of an unfinished big
house nobody wanted to buy appeared in Florida hill. It had been
built by the Spanish Sebastián Collado, who wanted to turn the third
floor into a birdhouse and conceived the terrace as a heliport.
But Mr. Sebastián Collado died in 1949 and his sons and eventual
buyers were equally discouraged when it came to this crazy house
full of stairs. So the big house remained abandoned and unfinished
for many years.
The poet went to see that shabby construction. He liked it, but
he thought it was too big. So he convinced the Velasco - Martner marriage to buy it in partnership. The latter kept the basement,
the yard and the first two floors of one side of the house. Neruda kept from the ground to the fourth floor plus the tower, of the other side. “I ended up losing – he joked-
I bought nothing but stairs and terraces”. The fact is he
had a privileged view over the bay.
The poet took three years to finish and furnish the house. Doctor
Francisco Velasco remembers he decorated it with old pictures
of the port and a big portrait of Walt Whitman. One of the workers
asked him if he was his father. “Yes, in poetry” –
Neruda answered.
Some windows were shaped as ship clerestories. The biggest terrace
became the dining room. The soundtracks of the films in the next
Mauri theatre could be heard form there. Velasco remembers one
occasion when Neruda went downstairs recommending to the couple
the film projected at that moment. It sounded good, judging by
the gunshots one could hear.
The house was opened by the poet with an unforgettable party on September
18th, 1961. Every guest was included in an “unforgettable
merits list” that underlined the help they had given to
build “La Sebastiana” out of an abandoned and old
construction. Neruda chose the name “La Sebastiana”
as homage to its first proprietor and builder.
Inspired by the occasion, Neruda wrote the poem “La Sebastiana”,
later to be included in the book Plenos Poderes. Its first lines
say: “I built the house. / First I made it from air.
/ Then I hung the flag in the air / and left it hanging/ from
the sky, from the star/ from clarity and from darkness…”
That day, Sara Vial remembers, Neruda guided his guests to the
tower. From there, with his spyglass, he presided over the whole
port. He instigated his guests to look in certain direction, towards
a house where a naked woman laid on the roof taking a sunbath.
Nobody ever could see her. Maybe she appeared only for the poet,
who assured he had discovered from there lots of secrets that
belonged to him.
Neruda liked to spend New Year’s Eve in Valparaíso.
“La Sebastiana” was a privileged watchtower to contemplate
the port’s traditional fireworks show. There, he spent his
last year, 1972, and saw the arrival of 1973.
Doctor Francisco Velasco tells that, short
after the poet’s death, one morning, when he was arriving
to La Sebastiana, he found the neighbourhood in turmoil. He was
told something strange was going on in the house. Carefully, he
went upstairs to check. He found a big eagle in the living room.
He opened the window for the bird to get out, but he could never
explain to himself how the eagle had got in. “Immediately,
it came to my mind that time when Pablo confided that if there
was another life, he would have liked to be an eagle -wrote doctor
Velasco-. I told this to Matilde and Teruca Hamel. It was Pablo,
they both answered at the same time. We’re sure”.
La Sebastiana -raided o searched after the military stroke o coup of 1973-, was
restored in 1991 thanks to the support of Telefónica de
España, which also made possible the acquisition of the
Velasco - Martner marriage’s part of the house. The house was officially inaugurated that year in December. The gardens and entrance were opened in 1994 and in 1997, again with Telefónica de España ‘s support, a Cultural Centre was opened.
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